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Bringing Tropical Houseplants Indoors for the Hurricane

October 17th, 2008

I have noticed that, for me at least, when something goes wrong, that’s not the end of it. Something else will go wrong before the first thing is finished. Well, that’s exactly what happened to me the other day here in the Virgin Islands.

Hurricane Hugo - 1989

The first bad thing was Hurricane Omar. By Wednesday, the forecasts were predicting a direct hit sometime that night or early the next morning. So I began the process of preparing for the worst. Years ago, Hurricane Hugo (left) taught me that it’s much better to “waste time” getting prepared than to gamble on a miss.

When I had finished clearing everything possible off my front porch, it struck me that this was a good opportunity for another blog post. I could show pictures of my house plants before and after the hurricane. I had just purchased a new digital camera, so I learned how to use it, and practiced by shooting pictures of how I had tried to protect my plants from the expected high winds.

Next, I went to my computer to transfer the pictures, and begin writing the “before Omar” post. That’s when the second bad thing happened: my computer crashed! Undaunted, I turned on my backup computer, only to discover the third bad thing: my backup software wouldn’t work on that system. That’s why I’m a bit late in posting this, as I just got through hacking my way into the hard disk from the crashed computer, and I finally have access to the website.

Before

Plants Indoors Before Omar

The first picture shows many of the smaller plants huddled together on my computer worktable. Some of them are already looking a little droopy, as they have never been indoors before. But I have turned on my ceiling fan to give them a little breeze, and I explained to them that this was only temporary, and that they would soon be back outside. I am particularly concerned about the coleus in the back, as it probably has some pretty bad memories of its life before I rescued it from the Home Depot last month.

Plants Outdoors Before Omar

Here are some of the larger plants. I couldn’t fit all my plants indoors, so I have placed most of them up against the inner porch wall. If the winds don’t get too strong, they won’t blow around as much. Maybe they’ll lose a few branches, but at least they’ll survive. In the background behind the (purposely) overturned chair is my largest houseplant — a coconut palm, still in its youth. My two bougainvillas are up against the back wall. They were already living here, as I am trying to get them to bloom, so they need to stay dry for a while.

At the time of this picture, it had rained a bit, but you can see that the porch floor is only wet near the railing, so it hasn’t yet begun to blow. The storm doors on the left will be barricaded shut before dark. I didn’t want to cut out all the light indoors until the last minute. The power is still on at this point, but you never know when it will get shut off. Actually, it stayed on until about 8 PM.

After

The Eastern Sky After Omar

This view of the eastern sky at about 6:15 Thursday morning looks pretty ominous, doesn’t it — it also looks like it was taken with B/W film. But neither is true … you can’t tell from the photo, but those clouds are moving from west to east. That means that the hurricane has already passed to our north, so I can begin restoring the plants to their former location.

The silver lining is that Omar was a real “wuss” — at least here in St. Thomas. I slept right through the storm. The winds were never strong enough to wake me up, and the plants survived without any broken limbs. By morning it was dead calm, at least at my elevation of 1200 feet above sea level, and the sun broke out about 8:00. The curfew imposed by the governor was lifted at 11:00, and our power came back on before noon.

Plant Nursery after Omar

This is how the west side of my porch is supposed to look. The coconut palm and the bougainvillas didn’t need to be moved, the chairs are back, and the immature plants are back on the railing. It’s early, so the porch is still soaking wet from the rain, which was enough to fill our cistern with good free water.

And if you look closely through the gap in the trees, you might be able to see my neighbors to the west. They still hadn’t opened their hurricane shutters, which surround their porch, so its hard to tell that there’s a house there … it looks solid-white.

Porch Railing After Omar

The entrance to the porch looks normal again, with the large plants sitting on the floor where they belong, and the smaller ones on the railing. The sun has broken through the remaining clouds, and the porch floor is beginning to dry out.

In the foreground are two of my favorites, which will be featured in future posts. On the railing is my original spider plant, which has, at last count, 18 daughters sprouting off the main plant, some with flowers. And the large fern on the floor, which I don’t even know the name of, was a “volunteer” that I found in the yard next to the house.

So all of the problems have been resolved, and everything is now back to normal.

1001 Answers to Almost
Any House Plant Question
Get a Free Sneak Preview
www.houseplantsecrets.com

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Tropical House Plant Care – How to Water Your House Plants

October 4th, 2008

An article like this one is featured on Ezine Articles

Too little water … too much water … either one can cause a plant to die. This article will help you decide exactly how much water to use, and what to do if you get it wrong.

What Determines the Amount of Water a Plant Needs?

There’s no general rule that works for every plant. It depends on:

  1. The plant’s environment: Higher temperatures, lots of light, and breezes or drafts will dry out a plant faster. Plants in small pots will need more water, and those in unglazed clay pots also, since the porous sides allow moisture to pass through. The type of potting soil is also a factor — more about this in another installment.

  2. The type of plant: Plants such as cactus that are native to a dry climate may not need much watering at all. Other plants with large, soft leaves need more water, as do plants that are blooming. I water my new cuttings daily, to stimulate root development.

Do all these factors mean that I just have to guess? … Not at all. Just use the “Feel the Soil Rule”. When the soil in the pot is dry to a depth of an inch or so, that’s the time to get out the watering can.

How to Water

Always give your plants a good soaking. It’s much better for them than small amounts applied more frequently. Every month or so, I like to just put the whole pot in a large bucket for a few minutes to make sure that all the soil is getting dampened.

Symptoms of Impending Disaster

How do you know if you’re doing it properly? It’s pretty easy to tell when a plant needs more water. Its leaves will begin to droop. Too much water is a more common mistake. It causes black spots, mold, or a “mushy” feeling in the stems.

How to Save the Day

If your plant is parched, just soak it for a while in a bucket. Mushy plants are more difficult to fix. Remove them from their pot and examine the roots. If they’re mushy too, it’s probably best to throw out the plant. Otherwise, replace most of the soil, and just keep it drier from now on.

Some Other Problems

  • Root-bound plants will need more water than usual. It’s best to repot them.

  • Ceramic pots with no drainage — just be conservative, and watch for symptoms of over-watering.

  • After repotting a plant, the new soil will stay moist much longer, since there are no roots in it to take up moisture, so you need to water it less often.

Once you get to know your plants, it’s much easier. You’ll develop a pattern, and you’ll learn to recognize possible problems before they get too serious.

Related Links

  • Indoor Gardening – The Essentials Of Quenching The Thirst Of Your Plants! – Watering systems for indoor gardens control the quantity of water provided to indoor plants and the frequency with which it is supplied. A number of watering systems for indoor gardens are available to suit the needs of various kinds of plants. You should also deliberate over such factors as the humidity and temperature of the plant location and the kind of container the plant is placed in. …

  • Watering in the Zone – Week 3 – To illustrate how little water houseplants use in low light interiors, I’m tracking this Dracaena Janet Craig ‘Compacta’. It was a new 4″ plant potted into a 2-liter recycled pop bottle planter about 2 weeks ago. No additional water has been added to the plant since then. …

You Don’t Have a Green Thumb?
Learn from Our Years of Experience
How to Grow Plants in Your Own Home
ContainerGardeningExpert.com

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Tropical House Plant Care – Introduction

September 25th, 2008

An article like this one is featured on Ezine Articles

Now that you have brought many of your outdoor tropical plants indoors for the winter, it’s time to go over some of the things you need to know about how to care for them indoors. This article begins a series on Tropical House Plant Care.

You don’t have to be an expert to grow beautiful plants indoors. Most varieties require a minimum of care, and will provide you with all of their benefits in return. There are three basic areas that you need to consider for a plant’s envirnoment: nourishment, their container, and their location.
  1. Nourishment: a) What type of plant fertilizer should you use, and how often should you apply it? b) How often should you water, how much water should you use, and what’s the best way to do it?
  2. Container: The size of the pot should be appropriate to the size of the plant, and it should have sufficient drainage. The potting soil used can make it easier to protect against mold and disease.
  3. Location: Where you place your plants will require consideration for the amount of light they receive, the temperature to which they are exposed, and the humidity of the air that they breathe.
Caring for your tropical houseplants simply involves providing them with an environment that simulates as closely as possible the conditions that they would experience in the wild. Once you establish a routine, they require very little of your time, and will provide you with beauty, as well as cleaner and fresher air for you home.

Related Links


The Complete Houseplant Survival Manual

Essential Gardening Know-How for Keeping
(Not Killing) More Than 160 Indoor Plants.
www.amazon.com

Technorati Tags: house plant care, indoor gardening, tropical house plant care, tropical house plants, tropical houseplants

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House Plants for Health

September 21st, 2008

There has been quite a bit of interest in this topic, which was introduced by the previous video, Go Green With House Plants. So here is another video on the same topic.

Botanists agree that many houseplants can actually filter the air, and absorb toxic chemicals given off by items in your home, such as rugs, furniture, and appliances.

But not everybody agrees that it’s practical to depend on plants to rid your home of toxins, nor that those “toxins” are really all that dangerous. See the second Related Link below for an opposing point of view.

Duration : 01:46

Related Links

  • Top 10 Houseplants for Cleaner Air. Houseplants are our often-overlooked helpers in ridding the air of pollutants and toxins, counteracting outgassing and contributing to balanced internal humidity. …

  • Indoor Plants as Air Purifiers. I see a lot of people asking … about which plants are good at removing chemicals from the air, and where one might find these plants. …

How to Grow Fresh Air
Combat Sick Building Syndrome
Cleanse Your Home of Common Pollutants
www.amazon.com

Technorati Tags: house plants for health, indoor gardening, tropical house plants, tropical houseplants

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Go Green With House Plants

September 17th, 2008

Looking for a simple way to go green?
How about some house plants?
Here are good some choices for cleaner air.

Duration : 00:03:34


Slate-Top Nesting Plant Stand
Put a Well-Deserved Spotlight on Your
Beautiful Tropical House Plants.
www.amazon.com

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Bringing Tropical Houseplants Indoors for the Winter

September 13th, 2008

Is winter on its way?

Do you live in the temperate zone? Don’t forget that most of your houseplants are native to the tropical zone, and they don’t like it when the temperature falls much below 55 °F.

If you have been giving your indoor house plants an outdoor vacation this summer, you had better decide what you’re going to do with them this fall. Tropical plants are perennials, so most of your houseplants could probably survive the winter months indoors.

Some plants, such as coleus, are easily propagated by cuttings. So you may decide to give birth to some daughters instead of preserving the mother plant. If so, you should start the process about 6 weeks before the first frost, in case your cuttings don’t “take” the first time. After potting your new plants, treat them just like your other indoor tropical plants.

Don’t move your tropical plants indoors too quickly. Sudden changes in temperature, light, or humidity could shock them into losing all their leaves, or even death.

If daytime temperatures are still high enough, just bring them indoors overnight for a while. When it gets too cold to bring them out again, start their days in a sunny room, or closed-in porch.

Don’t forget to check thoroughly for insects and disease!

Never bring an unhealthy plant indoors. If you can’t cure it, throw it out! It could infect your other healthy plants.

  • Start by soaking your pots in a tub of water first, to force any insects out of the rootball.
  • Carefully inspect stems and the underside of leaves. Mites and mealybugs can usually be washed off with a rag soaked in soapy water.
  • Remove cocoons using a Q-tip and alcohol, to unstick them from the foliage.
  • Lift the plant out of its pot to examine the roots, and remove any remaining insects.
  • If there is white gauze-like stuff in the roots, you may need to soak the rootball in some insecticide.
  • You may decide to repot, using fresh potting soil, and a little fertilizer.

How to care for houseplants during the winter.

  • Don’t use any fertilizer for at least two or three months. Since your plant is not growing, it’s not absorbing as many nutrients, and the excess salts could damage the roots.
  • Don’t over-water. When indoors, plants don’t lose as much water due to evaporation caused by wind or hot sunlight. Only water when the top of the soil in the pot is quite dry to the touch.
  • Many plants react poorly to the lower humidity indoors during the winter. Some may prefer living in a bathroom, which has periods of higher water vapor content. Another solution my mother used to use is to group plants together on shelves that are lined with a tray of moist pebbles.
  • Finally, all plants need light. Unless they are native to the jungle floor, tropical plants are used to about 12 hours of sunlight each day. Place pots close to a window, and consider using fluorescent light to prolong their daylight hours. Don’t forget to rotate the plants regularly, so they don’t develop a permanent lean toward your window.

Good luck. And may your thumb always be green!

Related Links

  • All about indoor gardening during winter – But if you think that your green fingers are raring to go and get some activity even in the winter months, you can go for winter indoor gardening. Before you embark upon indoor gardening, you need to have certain things ready. …

Aerogarden with Gourmet Herb Seed Kit
Enjoy Fresh Herbs at Every Meal
Uses High-yield Aeroponic Technology
www.Kalyx.com

Technorati Tags: indoor house plants, indoor tropical plants, indoors for the winter, tropical house plants, tropical houseplants, tropical plants indoors

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